Kabuki actors were known for their excessive and exaggerated makeup. The process of applying the makeup was elaborate and took a very long time. In fact, the action of applying the makeup is an art form in itself. Kabuki makeup can be considered a painting that is created on someone's face with the base as canvas and layers built up with colors and lines. It is still a very precise process that needs skill and a steady hand. Since most of the small details must be done close to a mirror, only a fingertip may be used. Because of the use of finger tips, Kabuki actors usually did their own makeup. 60-70% of the characterization of the actor is done through their makeup. The rest is made up of the actors facial expressions, motions, and dialogue.
The Kabuki makeup process is completed as follows:
Wax is applied to the eyebrows to make a flat surface
Next, a headpiece made of silk is added to cover the actor’s hair
Wax is used to hold this headpiece in place
Once the face is smooth, a white paint is painted onto the entire face, including eyelids and lips
The person applying the makeup then uses a sponge to erase brush strokes and make the paint even
A white powder is then added over the paint
To eliminate the excess powder, or Shelowee (the white powder), a brush is used gently over the face
Eyeliner is added next with a bright red paint, called fire red
The lines on the actor’s face determine what type of character he/she will be playing
The lines determine male, female, evil, commoner, noble, brave, coward, etc.
Eyebrows were also drawn differently per character